Porto tumbles down granite hills to the Douro river. At the bottom sits the Ribeira, the postcard old waterfront of laundry-strung lanes; climb the hill behind it and you reach the Baixa, the downtown of São Bento station, the Clérigos tower, and the Aliados boulevard. Spanning the gorge is the double-decker Dom Luís I bridge — cross its top deck on foot to Vila Nova de Gaia, the south bank where the port lodges age their barrels.
Follow the river west and it meets the ocean at breezy Foz; a little farther north is Matosinhos, the working fishing port where you'll have your great seafood lunch, and the Serralves museum. Inland, Cedofeita and the Bombarda arts district hold the hippest, most local eating. It's hilly — embrace the funiculars, the metro, and cheap rideshares.
The historic core — riverfront, São Bento, Clérigos. Touristy but gorgeous and walkable. Good first-choice to stay.
The arts-and-design quarter just uphill. Younger, more local, the best wine bars and modern tascas. Calmer place to stay.
The south bank, lined with port lodges and terraces facing the old town. Where you tour and taste.
West and north along the coast — the ocean promenade at Foz, and Matosinhos's street of fish grills. Day-trip territory.
Wander the riverfront, then walk the bridge's vertiginous top deck for the classic panorama of the old town and the lodges.
The tiled grand hall of São Bento station, then the baroque Clérigos tower for the climb and the view.
Tour and taste a tawny flight at Taylor's (terrace), Graham's (hilltop views), or boutique Kopke (great verticals). taylor.pt
An Art Deco villa, a Siza Vieira contemporary-art museum, and superb gardens — a green, quiet counterpoint. serralves.pt
Where the river meets the Atlantic — lighthouses, a breezy promenade, and a string of cafés. Pairs with a Matosinhos lunch.
The restored two-tier market hall — produce, presunto, cheese, and stalls doing quick plates.
A riverside institution that keeps its standards high — the octopus and salt cod are benchmark. The everyman dinner of the trip.
A snug, beloved tavern doing soulful Porto cooking. Books out — reserve ahead.
A whole street of marisqueiras grilling the day's catch over coals. Pick the busiest; order whatever's freshest. The seafood peak of Porto.
The pernil (roast-pork) sandwich with melting Serra cheese. Cheap, perfect, and a Porto rite of passage.
"Casa das Bifanas" — the benchmark marinated-pork sandwich since 1976. Stand at the bar, order a fino.
The crisp, spicy little hot-dog Porto invented, griddled and sliced. A great snack between sights.
Pastéis de nata pulled warm all day. A bell rings for fresh batches. Grab two.
Cedofeita wine bars for a guided flight of Douro reds and whites and a few petiscos — the perfect Porto evening.
Rui Paula's seafood tasting inside an Álvaro Siza masterpiece cantilevered over the Atlantic rocks at Leça. The trip's most beautiful dining room. site
A tiny, fervent kitchen-counter tasting with a Basque streak — a nice full-circle to the trip. Hard to book. site
Michelin dining and a cathedral of Portuguese wine, terraced over the river with the old town laid out before you. site